Day 8 - Dry bogs, a Himalayan gorge and the first rain
Sunlight and quacks filter through the thin curtains. I pull them aside to reveal a family of ducks pottering around on the grass under crystal blue skies.
Our Dalwhinnie neighbours
The start of the second week and remarkably I've only worn my waterproofs for five minutes. I should be grateful but the downside of being a natural blonde is fair skin which I fear can't take much more sun. Despite factor fifty sunscreen I'm permanently red. My tan is somewhat bizarre, red knees sandwiched between white calves and thighs covered by gaiters and shorts and stripy hands due to the straps on my walking poles.
Breakfast reputedly starts at 7.30 but the staff seem rather astonished to see the whole Challenge contingent ready and waiting. It's a rather disorganised affair but the food is good. By the time Sue and I have waved goodbye to Heather it is nine o'clock. The sun is already hot reflecting off the tarmac as we make our way to the old quarry track. The steep climb is tempered by wonderful clear views down to Dalwhinnie and over to Ben Alder. No inversion today but it is framed by an azure sky.
Although my head is a little fusty from last night's alcoholic indulgence my legs feel fresh. I'm reaping the benefit of two easier days. We soon catch Alan Jordan. He was one of the first Challengers I ever met. As a nervous first timer I sat with him at the bar in Acharacle. I had walked with him over part of the Mamore ridge and though he denies it I felt he looked out for the rookie for the rest of the Challenge. Other than a brief conversation at Queen's Street in 2006 our paths haven't crossed since. Once the incline lessens conversation flows to the detriment of our navigation. We make an unplanned trip to the western top of Cairn na Caim. Once on the true top we stop to drink in the expansive views. Many people echo guidebook views that the A9 Munros are dull. For many they are climbed purely to gain a "tick" on the list. I imagine in driech weather they are hard to love but today the rolling plateau under big skies so typical of the eastern hills is a sudden and refreshing change from sharp western peaks. For me Cairn na Caim will be a memorable hill.
Graham Brookes joins us. He looks west, points and reels of a long list of hills. He draws breath, turns east and reels off another list before anyone can get a word in edgeways. At some point in his monologue we realise these are hills already climbed and those awaiting him. The list is impressively long but none of us even Sue, who of all of us has the capability, wish to compete. He strides off intent on the two Corbetts either side of Loch an Duin whilst we amble over the plateau, glad there the Challenge is not competitive and that our more leisurely crossings will be equally valid.
Nameless lochan under big skies After rain this walk would be a hard bog dodging slog but there has been virtually no rain in the Highlands for three weeks. Boggy patches which would normally need to be circumvented can be bounced over and feet remain dry. A steep descent brings us to a delightful little glen behind An Dun with an abundance of green flat campsites stored in the memory banks for future use. It's not time to camp but a stop is in order. The Allt Gharbh Ghaig requires a paddle so a relaxed lunch is taken on its far bank.
Sue and Alan climbing out of Dalwhinnie.
Track to Gaick
Feet refreshed we take the track towards Gaick along an impressive geological fault. The wide strath is edged by imposing steep slopes reminding me more of New Zealand than Scotland. As we turn east along the Allt Garbh Gaig Alan comments the scene has become Himalayan. A narrow path zigzags high above a precipitous gorge. I almost expect to see prayer flags on the cairns. Building cloud and a muggy air make for a claustrophobic atmosphere.
Alan on the cairned path above the Allt Garbh Ghaig High up is a waterfall which in a less remote settings would surely draw large crowds. Just above it are two tiny green tents and as we draw closer we can make out Richard Jeffcoate and Jeff Reid. At the end of the stalker's path are some fine spacious green pitches. We are tempted but we all have an urge to push on over the col and shorten tomorrow's walk.
Sue and Alan set bearings on their compasses so I feel confident in leaving mine in its side pocket and bring out the GPS. My route has been downloaded before the Challenge. I've always been dubious of new technology and despite owning it for two years I have rarely used it. In these featureless surroundings with countless peat hags it comes into its own. Still I'm glad of the other two's old technology backing me up. It's hard to break a compass and it certainly can't run out of batteries.
As we reach the col spots of rain turn into a torrential downpour. In most Challenges this would be normal but walking head down in waterproofs is now alien to us. The GPS brings us to a confluence of fast flowing rivers exactly as predicted and a tricky descent and slippery river crossing brings us to another finely constructed path above another deep gorge.
The Minigaig path at the head of Glen Bruar is visible between splatters of rain on my glasses. Ann and Alvar told us of campsites here. I imagine green swathes beside the river but there is just one narrow patch visible and two figures already erecting a tent on it. With few other options we invade the Thorns and in a reprise of our Alder Burn camp we cross guy ropes to squeeze on three more tents.
The sunny open skies of Cairn na Caim now feel a world away. The rain is set in for the night so five somewhat despondent Challengers settle down for an early night.